Day 3 - Father Jim - Bethlehem/Church of the Nativity/Shepherds' field, the wall

Bethlehem/Church of the Nativity/Shepherds' field, the wall

Today's Slideshow

First thing I noticed, approaching the door of the Church of the Nativity early this morning was the  hodge podgeiness of the entrance.   Pilgrims often enter as we did, not though some elegant garden, but through a parking lot...with cars in it.  Looking up, maybe twenty feet  my eye was struct by a hugh stone pediment, big enough to get a school bus through.   It was built by the mother of Constantine the Great, Helena in the fourth century. But it was blocked off with big, square stones.  Below it, about twelve feet off the ground was an elegant arch created by the crusaders, sometime around eleven hundred.  It was beautiful. but stoned in.  Finally, about five feet off the ground, an ugly rectangular door that one must walk through in order to get inside,  it spoke volumes.  Apparently, sometime after the Crusaders left people began to bring animals, into the Church.  Tiny door no big animals.

Inside the Church this theme of construction, reconstruction only heightened.  With half of the floor covered with scaffolding and the other half empty there was nothing happening there.  Yet there was a smell of antiquity, old dust, and incense and the smell of humanity.  But as our guide, Iyad keeps telling us, the place to look for ancient activity is down, twenty feet down.  So we gingerly steeped down very slick and shiny stone steps until we were in the bowels of the building, the series of caves which in Mary and Joseph's time was the place where Jesus was born.   No timbered European style stable with a wood cradle full of warm hay, but a simple stone cave with a stone trough that was used in it's day to feed animals.  There was a depression a hole really, to one side that held several candles that burned in perpetuity the center of which was a metal and precious stone many sided star, with another depression, about the size of a softball, which was supposed to be the exact spot where Jesus was born, an educated guess.  We were there with only a few others for the Eucharist which is said every morning by Franciscan priests.  It was a special moment, made even more so as either coming in we bent to touch the cross. 

Just  few hours later we were at the base of the wall, in Bethlehem that separates the part of the town where Palestinians live from Israel.  It divides neighborhoods, families, gardens, farms, shepherds fields.  It was supposed to be 450 or so kilometers long, it is over 900.  I was startled to see that it did not run next to the settler's communities it was built to protect, but right on top of the houses and shops of Palestinians.  I guess the Israeli government does not want to have to move the wall when the settlements expand.   One of the panels was most powerful for me. 

I was reminded of the communion we had just shared a few hours before, American Episcopalians and Italian Catholics, with a few other denominations throw in Im sure.  "This is My blood," the priest said, holding up the cup.  "Do this in memory of Me."  In whatever way we view the theological purpose for Jesus' death on the cross, many have said  and still say that shed his blood in love for love.  His blood the same color as ours.  Many Christians venerate the      Sacratissimi Cordis Iesu, the scared heart of Jesus.  Some images, the ones that made me so uncomfortable growing up in the Catholic Church showed a heart bleeding.  I thought of that today, the first time in a long time.

Pilgrimage to the Holy Land/Day 3 - Church of the Nativity, 'The Wall' and Shepherds Field

Pilgrimage to the Holy Land - Day 3

Today's Slideshow

Another early start at 5:15am for breakfast and on the bus to the Church of the Nativity.

The reason for the early start was so we could join a Roman Catholic communion at the church at 7:30am that is not open to the public.  After a chance to explore the church, much of which is under reconstruction we entered an underground cave, close to the traditional site of the nativity and a Franciscan priest officiated at the communion which was held underground close to the traditional site of the nativity.  We sang some Christmas hymns in an adjacent cave.

We left the Church of the Nativity for a walk through Bethlehem, along the wall that separates Jerusalem from the West Bank.  Our destination was a local store which was selling items made of olive wood, icons, jewelry and clothing.

Our next stop was the Shepherds Field, more information about the location at http://www.seetheholyland.net/shepherds-field/  The church has a non-traditional format with seats arranged in a circle under a cupola.  We heard that many the churches under the Franciscans were designed to be different from each other and the theme here was of a tent.  We sang some more hymns and headed off to lunch.

Lunch was at Ruth’s Restaurant which served our best meal yet, felafel, salad, pita, etc.

As we’d packed much of the day into the morning and we’d had several early days in a row we had the afternoon off to reflect, relax or with one small group make an independent return trip to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

In the evening we had a talk from a Christian Palestinian, Dr. George Sabella.

Tomorrow we’re off to Nazareth where we’ll stay three nights…another early start! :-)

Day 2 - Father Jim -Western Wall, Temple Mount

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Israel Pilgrimage Day Two From Father Jim Papile

We were up early, five o'clock breakfast so that we could make it to the Western Wall and the Temple Mount before the crowds.  Things there have been pretty tense the last few months, you probably noticed in the media.  Just as in Jesus' time this most sacred place for three religions is a flash point for confrontation. 

There was a flurry of activity as we approached the Wall to say our prayers, and to press our written prayers into the cracks between the huge blocks of stone that made up the foundation of the Temple Mount.  Men, in black suits with long earlocks and beards, their prayer shawls up over their shoulders stood before the wall praying while they davined (prayed), bobbing quickly up and down: some walking briskly away as if late for work.  Women, dressed conservatively too, with their heads covered, prayed on their side of the holy space.  As early as it was, we seemed to be the only tourists on site.  There was no sense of tension whatsoever.  

Next, we lined up to go across the wooden bridge that would take us up to the Temple

Mount.  We got to the check point, at the bottom of the bridge about 7:20, ten minutes before it open.  I noticed, standing next to our group ten or so Jewish people, I could tell because they had kippahs on their heads.  It looked to me like they were having some kind of briefing, with the leader saying things life, "now, this is what you do if..."   Whatever it was, I didn't pay much attention.  When the Israeli police opened the gate, and we began to file through I noticed an overhead electric announcement which cautioned Jews not to go on the Temple Mount, for fear of stepping on the place where the Holy of Holies might have stood, for not provoking the Muslims, who had control of the area, the site being the Dome of the Rock, the third most sacred place in Islam. 

About ten minutes into his talk Iyad, our guide, asked us to move over a little, to get out of the way. Looking up I saw the same group of Jewish people, escorted by several armed Israeli soldiers walk slowly towards us.  This is a common experience by some radical jews who want to take back the Mount to build the Third Temple.  Several Muslims obviously found this provocative, yelling at them "Allah Akbar" God is great.  So the religious Israeli authorities beg Jews not to walk on the Holy of Holies, and the government sends troops to protect them when they do.  An obvious contradiction.  This Iyad assured us is why there has been trouble on the Mount in recent months.

It needs to be asked, for sure who should, or maybe even better who should not, be allowed on the Temple Mount, anyone who wanted to, obviously.  Sharing, or not sharing. this small stretch of ground, about the size of two football fields is a crystallization of the national problem.  It's seems logical to think that the Jews, Muslims, and Christians should be able to sit down and figure out how to live with each other in peace.  All, without a doubt, love the land passionately.  Trouble they make, they make for every body.  Physical oppression of the Arab cause spiritual oppression for the Jew.  Acts of a few zealots on both sides continually threatens peace on this holy mound, in this holy land place. 

Elias Chacour was, until his retirement the Patriarch of the Greek Orthodox Church in Israel. 

In 2001, Chacour gave an address at commencement at Emory University, in Atlanta, Georgia where he accepted an honorary degree. An excerpt from his speech:

Pilgrimage to the Holy Land/Day 2 - Western Wall, Dome of the Rock, Hospital, Dead Sea Scrolls

Today's Slideshow

Breakfast at 5:15am and heading off to the Western (Wailing) Wall at 6:15am.  We visited the Western Wall where prayers are spoken and also written prayers are secured in nooks and crannies of the wall.  Men and women are separated and while the male side was very purposeful rumor has it that there was a lot of weeping and solidarity on the women’s side.

At 7:30am the reason for our early rising became clear as we were at the front of the queue to go to Temple Mount.  There is only one entrance for non-muslims with a sign from the Senior Rabbi that noted that for religious reasons Jews should not enter.  We walked along a long walkway and entered Temple Mount where the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque are located.  The Muslim tradition for the Dome of the Rock can be seen at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isra_and_Mi%27raj#Hadith  It is the third most important site for Muslims after Mecca and Medina. Some members of our group had discussions with Muslims eager for a conversation about Jesus; also a part of their faith tradition.

From Temple Mount we went down to St. Anne’s Church in Jerusalem, where pools mentioned in the gospel are located.  We entered the church and the Rev. Mark Stanger one of our tour guides led us in a famous hymn.  You can hear the results here https://soundcloud.com/timb21/singing-at-st-annes

After a brief snack we went back to our bus and traveled to The Jerusalem Princess Basma Center for Disabled Children to see their work with West Bank and East Jerusalem children in need.  The center was founded by the sister of former King Hussein of Jordan and we saw and heard moving stories of their work, done with therapy only, no drugs.

A delicious lunch at the Pasha restaurant followed and we took our bus to to West Jerusalem for the first time this trip and visited the Israel Museum where the Dead Sea Scrolls are housed.  We also viewed a scale model of the City of Jerusalem which set out the city much as it would have been in Jesus time.

After a long day, this was now 4pm, we returned to the hotel for some rest and relaxation.

In the evening Ophir Yarden joined us to give an Israeli perspective on contemporary issues; a lively discussion about the hope for peace and reconciliation in Israel.

Day 0 & 1, From Father Jim, Arrival and First Day in Jerusalem

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Day 0: Tel Aviv to Jerusalem

It was a travel day: Washington to Paris, Paris to Tel Aviv. Turbulence on the first leg, right at dinner time, forced the attendants to wait past the two hour deadline to serve food. Health regulations do not allow for the service of food if it has been warmed for two hours. But it was past dinner time and the hoards were hungry. So the passengers just went into the galley and helped themselves. Soon passengers were strolling up and down the aisles with trays, balanced precariously, in their hands. I have never seen anything like it! It all turned out OK. I ate, having stood in line myself, and ten hours later I'm still feeling fine.

We arrived Saturday, which being the Jewish Sabbath, the bus ride into Jerusalem to the place we are staying, St George's Guesthouse, College, and Cathedral (home of the Anglican Diocese in Jerusalem), was easy. We met with our fellow pilgrims, from Warwick, New York and Woodside, California and had dinner. We had a meeting with our guide, Iyad, and fell into bed.

Day One: Jerusalem

Father Jim with The Most Reverend Suheil 

Dawani, Archbishop of the Diocese of Jerusalem.

After breakfast, we started with an introductory session led by our assistant guide, Father Mark, who is a priest from San Francisco. He has been working with Iyad for several years. Using maps we laid out the old city in an attempt to get our bearings and then we watched a 60-minute video that explained the plight of Palestinian Christians who were once 20 percent of the population in this country and are now under two. It's all very complicated, but the thrust of the video and our discussion after was how the conflict between Israeli Jews and the Arab Muslim is catching the Christians in the middle and why many are still leaving the country. We went to the eleven o'clock Eucharist at the Cathedral, had lunch and an audience with the Archbishop of the Diocese, which was fun because he was at the Seminary the same time I was. We then walked down to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which we Anglicans call the Church of the Redeemer, stopping for lunch at a local shwarma shop. Really good!

Church of the Resurrection is a great hodge-podge of various chapels and other spaces over which it is presumed that Jesus was killed and buried. In the fourth century the Emperor Constantine sent his mother to find the place where Jesus died and was resurrected. We ran through it briefly, roughly getting the lay of the land, it is a very confusing place. We expect to go back during free time later in the week. It really is a fascinating place that six different denominations share, or maybe more accurately where each guard their "turf" jealously.

Afterwards we went back to Saint George's for a lecture from a Palestinian Muslim, political scientist. He was very interesting to listen to, as you can well imagine, with not much good to say about the difficulties Palestinians face in this time they call occupation. More on this for another time, because before I go I want to tell you something about our guide, Iyad Qumri. He introduces himself by saying: "I am an Arab, a Palestinian, and a Christian." Describing himself this way is telling. What he is one of a vanishing people. Since the first days, when Jews began to call themselves followers of Jesus, Pentecost, there have been Christians in this land. But that is rapidly changing. Being such a small minority, they have no great numbers that might create even a small safety net. Being Palestinian means that they are subject to all the restrictions and indignities that are inflicted daily. Living on the West Bank, it is impossible to work in Israel proper, where all the jobs are. Driving through an Israeli Army checkpoint can take 20 minutes or three hours. You can never predict.

And still the Diocese sponsors 20 schools (6,400 students), two full service hospitals and several clinics and facilities for the other abled. They support four guest houses for pilgrimages, and 27 parishes. With only the resources provided by people like us. (For more information checkout the website The American Friends of the Diocese of Jerusalem.) It's inspiring to see the work they do here. I am glad St Anne's sent us to come and to stand in solidarity with them. 

Pilgrimage to the Holy Land/Day 1 - East Jerusalem and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher

A photo slideshow from today https://youtu.be/5e2uyWQx0W0

We started the day with a wonderful breakfast and a brief morning service for our team which includes members of St. Anne’s and two other churches.  After an archeological briefing about the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  We then attended a larger service at St. George’s Cathedral, our host for our time in Jerusalem and met afterwards with Bishop Suheil Dawani whose diocese includes Syria, Jordan, Lebanon, Israel and the West Bank.

Our primary activity today was a walking tour through East Jerusalem to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which surrounds Calvary and Golgotha.  Throughout the trip important sights including ATMs and drug stores were pointed out.  We had lunch at a restaurant where we ate schwarma (hope I spelt that correctly.)  Passing through Damascus Gate we descended into the Souq where we saw spices, candy and clothing sold alongside electronic goods. 

Arriving at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher we learned about the infighting between the 6 Christian groups about who owns what parts of the church that has gone on for hundreds of years.  A Muslim family holds the official key to the church to ensure that everyone is treated equally, we met the family patriarch during our walk.

The church is buried amongst many other buildings and is only noticeable when you get fairly close.  We went inside and viewed various sights (and sites!) including Calvary and Golgotha.  There were crowds of people gathered around various religious sites, some who had queued for hours.

The goal of the walk was to get us acquainted with the location and to encourage us to travel back by ourselves in small group.  At no time did we feel the situation was dangerous or risky, the biggest risk is getting lost and the signage is very good.
After walking back from the old city we took a short break and then had a lecture on Islam from our guest speaker Firas Amad.  I think several people were surprised to find out that Jesus and Mary are figures in the Koran and to hear Firas’ perspective on religion and politics.

We had dinner and retired for the night.